And this was light traffic for Kolkata. Not the safest activity…
March 15: It’s now Kolkata. Not sure when or why they changed the name. But that’s so India – not sure why or how so many things happen in this country. I suppose that’s the charm, though many use other adjectives. And while Kolkata has its share of temples and sites, this is not a city you come to visit, but a city you come to experience. Ask the 4 of us about our experiences and you may get 6 different opinions.
Easier to judge cleanliness at street-side restaurants
Kolkata is one of the most densely populated cities on earth with 71,000 people every square mile, each of whom will want to talk to you, sell you spices, take your photograph, cook you lunch or drive you somewhere. There are people, cars, rickshaws, motorbikes and animals everywhere and at all times. Crossing a Kolkata road seems suicidal but a necessary and frequent endeavor – just walk at a steady pace and the vehicles usually swerve around. The city has a reputation for being dirty, squalid and desperately poor and, I suppose, some of that is true. In the cool season, it is hot; in the hot season it is stifling. Rain would be welcome but we never saw a cloud. And despite the heat, Bengali food is always spicy, with some nonsense about how the sweating helps cool you down when the only way to cool down is to take a cold shower. Air conditioning is a luxury the kids are eager to have but rarely eager to pay for. Funny how priorities change when it’s their money…
One of the many colorful flower markets
Poverty is in your face though somewhat organized. Homeless people have a system; they have their small bag of possessions and sleep in the same spot each night. Begging can be persistent to the point where, in some neighborhoods, it is understood to be controlled by the mafia that determines who begs in which location. Children beggars are bused in from the countryside and ‘loaned’ to adult females who then masquerade themselves as starving ‘famiies.’ Apparently, professional beggars in front of Mother Teresa’s home, a prime location, live a middle class lifestyle when not begging.
Even more difficult to see at night when most pullers sleep under their rickshaws.
Auto rickshaws can be found throughout India and most major cities have bicycle rickshaws. But Kolkata is the only city that still has rickshaw-wallahs; men that struggle and sweat as they pull the rickshaw when running you to your destination for $.50. While I will try most anything, I refuse to be carried by another person. But my attitude does not affect their livelihood as they carry plenty of business people, school children, poultry, sick people, and prostitutes, as well as some of India’s heaviest, in their flowing saris.
We each have our highlights. For Ryan, it was probably arriving by train without his parents. Because tickets were limited and even with the appropriate ‘contributions’, Ryan and Sarah were in separate train cars. And if it wasn’t for Sarah, Ryan may still be sleeping in his bunk. Upon arrival, in the midst of the Kolkata train station morning chaos, It was nice to see them walking towards us with the no-worried, self-confidence that one gets after traveling for 7 months. More valuable than straight As.
Just another day at the office…
Despite the incessant blaring of horns, Sarah enjoyed the Kolkata tour on the back of an Enfield motorcycle, dodging all sorts of buses, taxis, rickshaws and people. There are no traffic lanes; vehicles are everywhere including on the sidewalks. With 16 million people, if you don’t fight to the front of the line, you will forever be in the queue.
We spent a day volunteering at Daya Dan, one of Mother Teresa’s missions that care for mentally and physically handicapped children. We washed dirty sheets and made the cribs; we peeled the papaya and pureed it until it was mush; we fed kids lunch and put them down for naps. Amazing what Mother Teresa accomplished though not sure all Hindu Indians appreciate her focus on Christianity and the attention she placed on Calcultta’s destitute and dying. It’s not easy appeasing a billion people.
Based on the results, Sarah said the $3 shave/cut was too much, but the conversation was worth way more.
I was happy to get lost in the city’s back alleys of Barabazar. Nothing in particular is amazing. Just thousands of merchants trading their wares, baggage boys balancing huge packs of goods on their heads, vendors cooking veggie samosas and spicy noodles, kids playing in the streets while dodging cows and the poorest of the poor sifting through street garbage for remnants of something that may be of value. A street-corner straight-edge shave and haircut cost me $3; the local buses are great if you don’t mind sweat boxes; and the subway is easy to navigate but with millions of people and only one line, you need to be comfortable in confined spaces. I snapped all sorts of photos. No one paid me any attention. Just like at home.
March 15: The final three hours of our 21-hour journey was in a shared jeep bouncing up a harrowing road with more switchbacks than guardrails. We stopped at 7000 feet, in Darjeeling, a little bit of mountain heaven on a sliver of Indian territory wedged between Nepal, Bhutan and Bangladesh. Most mornings, snow-capped mountains are visible behind the prayer flags that seem to be swaying everywhere; on a perfectly clear day, you can see Everest. Drivers don’t lean on their horns and the air is crisp and refreshingly clean. It just feels healthy.
Street-side dumpings and noodles. If it’s cooked, it must be safe…
Indians in Darjeeling look Nepalese; locals are Buddhist; the food mostly Tibetan. People are extremely friendly; kids can’t get any cuter. It’s cold here and spicy food is for hot climates so we have porridge for breakfast, street-side dumplings for lunch and Tibetan Thukpa soup for dinner. Then head down the cobble-stoned streets to Glenary’s or Joeys, the only places in town that serve beer, which means it is easier to get alcohol here compared to anywhere else in India. But this is not typical India, though nothing in India seems typical. Some say that’s the challenge; we think that’s the charm.
We met all sorts of interesting people. There was Brandt, that rare traveling American – 22 years old and studying in Germany for a year. Smart kid and Ryan and Sarah enjoyed the company of someone closer to their age for a few days. Tyrone, a Brit and traveling alone, shared stories about having his chai being drugged and then sold a 3-week package of pre-paid hotels only to arrive in
With Tyrone, who easily laughs at his travel challenges.
Darjeeling to learn his hotel was neither booked nor paid. Prior to his arrival in Varanasi, another shop owner convinced him to buy special clothes so that he would be comfortable and fit in, only to realize it made him itch and stand out. As a first time backpacker, Tyrone’s street-smarts’ learning curve is rather steep. Nice guy – he’ll learn.
But the most important person was Asish, our guide for a 13-mile, 2-day trek into the Indian Himalayas and across the border into Nepal. Our plan for a pleasant walk under sunny skies changed, as plans tend to do, and we got caught in an intense hailstorm. We spent the evening in a Nepalese tea hut, huddled in front of a tiny fireplace with 8 other travelers,
Nepal not part of the initial plan. But plans often change…
all trying to get the blood flowing while watching the water evaporate from every piece of clothing. A local family cooked a wonderful dinner, and evening conversations with Michael from Germany, Marcus from Israel, an Irish/Italian couple, a Japanese guy and three Romanians living in Quebec made one forget about the weather.
Thawing out in wet clothes was far less enjoyable than…
But that didn’t last as temperatures dropped below freezing and the heat in the rooms consisted of four blankets and a hot water bottle. Sarah cuddled in bed with Donna and stayed warm. I cuddled with the water bottle and froze. Ryan slept just fine. Many memories, though not all highlights.
…dinner at the tea hut. People from 7 countries were considerate enough to speak English. We have it so easy.
Two months ago I bought at bootlegged copy of Django assuming, at some point, I would have a few free hours to enjoy a good Quentin Tarrantino movie. In seven weeks in India, I have yet to find the time. With so much to experience and so many friendly people to chat with, my concerns about “been there, done that, seen everything” are gone. We spend very little time in the rooms – not because some of the hotels are, as Sarah likes to say, “sketchy”, but because there is so much to see. And when there is any hint of boredom and that movie becomes possible, we are packing our bags and moving on. There is no down time. It’s been the same since we left in August. No surprise that the seven months have gone by so fast and I imagine I will return in June with that movie still un-watched.
Hail was not part of the plan either
Speaking of returning, while we won’t be back to Kolkata, we will definitely return to India. Between the friendly people, terrific food, colorful clothing, street-side markets and varieties of religions, languages and cultures, and of course the joy of overnight public transportation, everyday is different and there is always something more to learn. Quite an amazing place.
But what I find most amazing, is that with never-ending change and the constant moving among hotels, buses, trains, rickshaws, motorbikes and ferries; the never-ending interactions between locals and fellow travelers; the constant asking for directions and non-stop bargaining, daily food surprises, and the not knowing of where we will sleep, eat, get money, or pee – among all the unknowns, Sarah continues to excel in school. With unlimited attractions and distractions, I have no clue how she stays focused. Truly impressive.
Beach 7, Havelock, Andaman Islands. A welcome change from the chaos of Kolkata and the chill of Darjeeling. And a nice way to end our India journey.
But it’s not chaos. It’s a lifestyle that can be tiring but never boring. Which is good because why settle for a boring lifestyle? And that will not change as Tuesday we will connect with my sister, Amy, and her family so that we can travel for a 10-dayMalaysia adventure through Borneo. So while backpacking is our current lifestyle, it will be nice to see family.
For more photos from India as well as 4 days in paradise, click here.